2013 Chevrolet Suburban Suspension & Steering Torque Specs

OEM-referenced torque, socket, and thread specs for the 3 front and rear suspension and steering fasteners on the 2013 Chevrolet Suburban — including the Tie Rod End Nut (torques to 55 ft-lbs, 21mm socket, M14x1.5 thread). Every value is safety-critical; verify against your service manual and use a calibrated torque wrench. Full bolt specs for the rest of the vehicle are linked below.

Sway Bar & Stabilizer Links torque — 2013 Chevrolet Suburban

On the 2013 Chevrolet Suburban, the sway bar & stabilizer links fasteners are: Sway Bar End Link Nut (torques to 67 ft-lbs, 18mm socket, M14x1.5 thread). Suspension and steering bolts are safety-critical — use a calibrated torque wrench, replace any prevailing-torque (locking) nut that has been removed, and confirm the value against your service manual before reassembly.

Steering (Tie Rods & Linkage) torque — 2013 Chevrolet Suburban

On the 2013 Chevrolet Suburban, the steering (tie rods & linkage) fasteners are: Tie Rod End Nut (torques to 55 ft-lbs, 21mm socket, M14x1.5 thread). Suspension and steering bolts are safety-critical — use a calibrated torque wrench, replace any prevailing-torque (locking) nut that has been removed, and confirm the value against your service manual before reassembly.

Other Suspension Fasteners torque — 2013 Chevrolet Suburban

On the 2013 Chevrolet Suburban, the other suspension fasteners fasteners are: Front Hub/Bearing Nut (4WD) (torques to 177 ft-lbs, 36mm socket, M28x1.5 thread). Suspension and steering bolts are safety-critical — use a calibrated torque wrench, replace any prevailing-torque (locking) nut that has been removed, and confirm the value against your service manual before reassembly.

How to torque Suburban suspension & steering fasteners

Torque suspension and steering fasteners with the vehicle at ride height (wheels loaded) wherever a bushing is involved — tightening a control-arm or sway-bar bushing bolt with the suspension hanging pre-loads the rubber and it fails early. Clean the threads, start every fastener by hand to avoid cross-threading, and make the final pass with a calibrated torque wrench rather than an impact gun. Ball-joint and tie-rod castle nuts take a new cotter pin; never back a castle nut off to line up the hole — only tighten to the next slot.

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