Blue vs Red Threadlocker: Complete Guide (Colors, Brands & Codes)

Threadlocker color codes plus the exact product numbers for Loctite, Permatex, Vibra-Tite and 3M — when to use blue, red, purple or green, how to apply it, and how to remove red.

Blue vs Red Threadlocker: Complete Guide (Colors, Brands & Codes)

Threadlocker is a single-component anaerobic adhesive: liquid in the bottle, but it cures solid once it’s trapped between metal threads away from air. Cured, it fills the gaps between male and female threads — stopping the fastener vibrating loose and sealing the threads against moisture. Pick the wrong strength and you’ll either strip the bolt removing it, or watch it rattle out on the road.

Quick answer: Blue (medium) for anything you’ll ever take apart again; red (high) for joints that should never move (and need heat to remove). Purple is for tiny screws under 1/4", and thin green wicks into fasteners that are already assembled.

The threadlocker colour code

Colour is the fast read on strength — but confirm the grade on the label, as brands vary.

Threadlocker colour code: purple (low), blue (medium) and red (high) increasing in strength, plus green wicking grade
Colour reads strength at a glance: purple for tiny screws, blue for anything you’ll service, red for near-permanent joints (heat to remove), and thin green to lock fasteners that are already assembled.
ColourStrengthBest forRemoval
PurpleLowSmall screws under 1/4": set screws, adjusters, electronicsHand tools
BlueMediumMost 1/4–3/4" service fasteners: caliper bolts, valve covers, sensors, bracketsHand tools
RedHighNear-permanent: studs, frame bolts, axle & suspension hardwareHeat (~500°F / 260°C), then hand tools
GreenWickingFasteners that are already assembled — capillary action draws it inHand tools or heat (by grade)

Blue vs red: which one do you actually need?

The decision that trips up most DIYers — and the one that snaps bolts when you get it wrong.

QuestionBlue (medium)Red (high)
Will you service this part?Yes — calipers, valve covers, sensors, bracketsNo — studs, frame/subframe bolts, bellhousing
Vibration / loadNormalSevere or structural
How you’ll remove itHand toolsHeat to ~500°F first, then hand tools
When in doubt, choose blue. Red on a bolt you later need to remove cold is exactly how threads get stripped and bolt heads snap off. You can always step up to red; you can’t easily undo it.

Green (wicking) — the one most people miss

Thin enough to lock a bolt you already torqued, without tearing the assembly apart.

Wicking grade (Loctite 290, Permatex 29000) is built to be applied after assembly — capillary action draws it down into the engaged threads. It’s perfect for locking a set screw, electrical terminal or pre-set adjustment you found loose, without disturbing the setting.

Loctite codes (the original lineup)

Loctite (Henkel) is the most widely specified brand; the base 3–4 digit number is the grade.

Grade / colourProductNotes & temperature
Purple — Low222Small screws under 1/4"; −65 to 300°F
Blue — Medium242The classic removable grade for 1/4–3/4" bolts; to 300°F
Blue — Medium243242 upgrade — oil-tolerant & primerless; to 360°F
Blue — Medium (stick)248Semisolid stick — no drip, great overhead
Red — High271High-strength workhorse for permanent assembly
Red — High263Oil-tolerant & primerless; to 360°F
Red — High (large bolts)277For bolts roughly 1" and larger
Green — Wicking290Penetrates pre-assembled fasteners; medium-to-high hold

Permatex codes (auto-parts-store shelf)

Same colour logic as Loctite, usually easier to find locally.

Grade / colourPart numbersUse
Purple — Low24024Small fasteners under 1/4"
Blue — Medium24200 (liquid), 24010 (gel), 24240The everyday removable pick
Red — High27100, 27110, 27140Permanent assembly
Red — High (high-temp)27200, 27240Heat-resistant permanent
Green — Wicking29000, 29040Penetrating, applied after assembly

Other brands follow the same colours — Vibra-Tite 111/121/131 (purple/blue/red) and 150 (green wicking); 3M Scotch-Weld TL22/TL42/TL62 (low/medium/high).

How to apply threadlocker the right way

It only works on clean, dry threads — and it changes how the fastener torques.

StepWhat to do
1. CleanDegrease the bolt and hole with brake cleaner; remove old cured threadlocker, oil and debris.
2. DryLet the threads dry fully. For oily or blind holes use an oil-tolerant grade (243 / 263) or a primer.
3. ApplyA few drops on the engaged threads is plenty; in a blind hole add a little down the hole. Wicking goes on after assembly.
4. TorqueTighten to spec — wet threadlocker lubricates, so use the wet torque value if your manual lists one.
5. CureHand-tight strength in ~10–20 min; full cure in about 24 hours. Don’t load it hard until cured.
Wet threadlocker is a lubricant. A wet thread reaches higher tension at the same torque reading — use your manual’s wet-torque figure (or reduce slightly) so you don’t over-tension and snap the bolt. See our oil vs anti-seize guide on how lube changes torque.

How to remove red (high-strength)

Don’t crank harder — you’ll snap it. Red comes out with heat.

Apply localised heat with a heat gun or torch until the fastener reaches roughly 500°F (260°C); the adhesive softens and the bolt backs out while it’s still warm. Work safe: heat-resistant gloves, eye protection, and keep flame well away from fuel lines, plastics and rubber.

Common mistakes

Five ways threadlocker turns on you.

MistakeWhy it bites you
Red where blue belongsTurns a 5-minute job into a torch-and-pray removal — or a snapped bolt
Dirty or oily threadsThe bond won’t form; clean and dry first, or use an oil-tolerant grade
Using it on plasticAnaerobics can craze and crack many plastics — use a plastic-safe product
Ignoring the torque changeWet threadlocker lubricates; use wet-torque values or you’ll over-tighten
Locking TTY / pre-coated bolts blindlySome torque-to-yield or pre-coated bolts are designed dry — check the manual

Which threadlocker to keep on the shelf

Three grades cover almost every job around the garage — grab what you’re missing.

Some links below are Amazon affiliate links — as an Amazon Associate we may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.

Recommended Tool · everyday serviceable bolts

Loctite 243 (blue, medium)

The one you’ll reach for most — calipers, brackets, sensors and valve covers. Oil-tolerant, and still removable with hand tools.

Recommended Tool · joints that must never move

Loctite 271 (red, high)

High-strength hold for studs, frame and suspension bolts. Plan on localised heat to remove it later.

Recommended Tool · lock a bolt you already torqued

Loctite 290 (green, wicking)

Thin enough to wick into assembled threads — the fix for a fastener you found loose without stripping the assembly down.

Lock it to the right torque. Threadlocker can’t fix the wrong clamp load. Look up your fastener’s size and torque with our fastener search before you assemble.

Frequently asked questions

Is blue threadlocker permanent?

No — medium-strength blue is removable with ordinary hand tools. That’s the whole point. Use red when a fastener should never come loose.

Can I reuse threadlocker?

Scrape and clean the old cured product off and apply fresh — don’t rely on the old bond. The exception is repositionable products like Vibra-Tite VC-3.

Does threadlocker expire?

Yes. Anaerobics have a shelf life (around two years unopened, less once opened); old product cures poorly and won’t hold.

Threadlocker or a lock washer?

Threadlocker also seals the joint and works where washers can’t; mechanical locks can be reused instantly. Plenty of critical joints use both.

Keep going

Do Lock Washers Work?
Threadlocker vs split, star and Nylock locking.
Oil vs Anti-Seize
How thread lube — including threadlocker — changes torque.
Torque Specifications
Reach the right clamp load before you lock it.
Find your exact spec
Look up torque and bolt sizes for any vehicle.

Bottom line: blue for anything you’ll service, red for joints that must never move (and need ~500°F to remove), purple for tiny screws, and green to lock what’s already assembled. Apply to clean, dry threads, use the wet-torque value, and let it cure — the right grade is the difference between a joint that holds and a snapped bolt.